SWCP Trip 3 Bude to Port Isaac

3 days, 30 miles

March 2017

DayRouteMileageApprox time
11Bude to Crackington Haven9.85 hours
12Crackington Haven to Tintagel11.15.5 hours
13Tintagel to Port Isaac9.14.5 hours

Having completed two 5 day stretches and 124 of the 630 miles in two years, we wanted to up our pace so we could finish it quicker.  We decided to visit the path twice each year, so we added in a long weekend of walking in the spring. 

We arrived back in Bude on a wet and windy day in March.  My memory of this stretch is one of overcast skies, rain and obscured views.  It was strenuous: we climbed high cliffs, descended into steep valleys and walked through coastal woodlands. 

In Crackington Haven we stayed in a beautiful B&B which had the most tasteful décor and accessories of everywhere we stayed on the whole coast path.  The owners welcomed us with tea and homemade cake, our wet and muddy boots were placed thoughtfully by the wood burner for the night and we were given a lift to and from the famous Coombe Barton Inn, set just above the beach, for our evening meal.  Not only this, but in the morning as we set off, the fields around were enveloped in a thick fog.  Armed with a comprehensive set of instructions, we left and attempted to find the path, but there was no way we could find it as we could barely see 4 metres in front of us.  We returned to the B&B and the owner put on his wellies and tramped across the fields with us, putting us in touch with the acorn and the path once again.  It really was top class service.

The harsh wildness of the first day was broken up sporadically by a beautiful field of wild flowers or a collection of gorse bushes in full bloom.  Otherwise the exposed and rugged cliffs gave us a feeling of isolation and desolation, as few other walkers were out in these conditions.  Although views were limited we could sense the force of the Atlantic crashing onto the crumbling cliffs below us.  It was harsh and brutal, yet life affirming and beautiful.

Trudging to Tintagel, a stretch famed for its fantastic views, we saw nothing.  There were long stretches high up on fragile cliff tops with sheer drops into the sea below.  If the visibility had been better I would probably have been more nervous and tentative.  It became more of an endurance test than a scenic walk.  On days like this progress is fast, as it is too cold and wet to stop.  We managed to find shelter in Boscastle and then continued in the same way to Tintagel.  We bypassed the castle, vowing to return in better conditions, continuing to our destination of Port Isaac. 

As we made our final descent the clouds cleared a little, to welcome us into this picturesque and quaint village. Freshly showered and dry, we were able to wander around the narrow streets, gaze at the whitewashed cottages of this place, famous for the Doc Martin series.  Snugly ensconced in the wonderful Golden Lion, we looked out to the sea beyond the small harbour, dotted with fishing boats.  As we reflected on our journey so far, we were already looking forward to returning to this charming village to continue where we had left off.

Travel arrangements

Drive to Bude and park car
Walk from Bude to Port Isaac
Bus Port Isaac to Launceston (Transport for Cornwall, Bus 10) – 1 hour
Bus Launceston to Bude (Stagecoach South West, Bus 6a) – 45 mins

Accommodation

Crackington HavenHannah’s Cottage, Hallagather Farm, Crackington Haven, Bude EX23 0LA
TintagelBosayne B&B, Atlantic Road, Tintagel, Cornwall, PL34 0DE
Port IsaacTerrace Tea Rooms and B&B, 2 Tintagel Terrace, Port Isaac, Cornwall PL29 3SE