| Day | Route | Mileage | Approx time |
| 14 | Port Isaac to Padstow | 12 | 6.5 hours |
| 15 | Padstow to Porthcothan | 14 | 6.75 hours |
| 16 | Porthcothan to Newquay | 11 | 7 hours |
| 17 | Newquay to Perranporth | 11 | 6 hours |
| 18 | Perranporth to Portreath | 12 | 6 hours |
| 19 | Portreath to St Ives | 17 | 7.5 hours |
Arriving back in Port Isaac, now in summer, with long days and warm air, the streets were swarming with holidaymakers. The village had lost none of its charm. The bright and sunny conditions continued late into the evening as we installed ourselves on the outside terrace of the pub overlooking the harbour, with stunning ocean views.
As we were enjoying a fish and chip supper, below on the Platt, a small open area in front of the harbour, a group of men were setting up to sing. Considerable numbers of people were gathering around. We discovered that we had stumbled upon a gig by Fisherman’s Friends, a famous group of folk musicians. Unbeknown to us, they perform for free every Friday night, weather and sea permitting, and collect for charities. We found a spot to settle, stretched out and let the music lift our souls.
Most of the original line-up of this group, which has been singing locally since 1995, came from within half a mile of Port Isaac harbour. They were all linked to the sea as fishermen, coastguards or lifeboatmen. They became famous in 2010 when a BBC radio presenter discovered them whilst on holiday in Cornwall. How wonderful that even after discovering fame they continue to perform in the village and delight the locals and holidaymakers alike with their humorous shanties and nautical songs.
This magical evening was an important part of the whole experience of this path. It was not just about the walking. It was about the people we met along the way, the interesting wildlife and birds, the memorable pub meals, the quirky B&Bs, the variety of breakfasts, the spontaneous concerts, the unpredictable weather. These were all part of the what shaped the journey and combined together to surprise and inspire us.
This was a beautiful stretch of the coast path, passing through some well-known places on the Cornwall tourist map: Rock, Padstow, Newquay, Watergate Bay and St Ives. The weather was good, with some breath-taking views, huge blue skies and clear visibility for miles.
There were some absolute gems along the way: the spectacular sunset over Porthcothan Bay whilst sitting at the pub; diverting off the coast path to wander amongst the stacks, rock pools and caves at Bedruthan Steps – the combination of weather, light and tide made this view picture perfect; swimming in the sea at Perranporth, where the tide came in so quickly that we had to move our belongings twice as we swam; the beautiful colours of heather and other wild flowers between Perranporth and Portreath; spotting seals basking on the beach at the bottom of the cliffs at Mutton Cove; the long and incredibly beautiful beach and dunes of Gwithian.
Gwithian is a magnificent beach, 3 miles long and backed by stunning dunes and wild grasses. There were only a small number of people dotted along the beach and so it had a feeling of space and peace, an enormous sky and sumptuous views in all directions. The stunning aqua blue colours of the sea on the walk from the Hayle Estuary into St Ives at the end of an 18 mile day, were reminiscent of the Mediterranean. The view back towards the dunes of Gwithian and out to the Godrevy lighthouse was full of colour and drama.
On completion of the walk, we took the 4.25 mile branch line, opened in 1877, running from St Ives to St Erth along the sea coast and the Hayle estuary. It has been listed as one of the most picturesque railways in England. Although we had walked along the coast path, it was a treat to finish the day seated and looking out admiring the miles we had covered on foot. The route takes you close to the sea on top of the cliffs passing Carbis Bay. The panoramic views are wondrous on a clear day and we experienced it at its best.
| Drive to Bodmin Parkway Station and park there |
| Bus Bodmin Parkway to Port Isaac (Transport for Cornwall 10) – 1.5 hours |
| Walk from Port Isacc to St Ives |
| Train St Ives to Bodmin Parkway (Great Western Railway via St Erth) – 1.5 hours |
| Port Isaac | Terrace Tea Rooms and B&B, 2 Tintagel Terrace, Port Isaac, Cornwall PL29 3SE |
| Padstow | 1 Casworth Terrace, Padstow, PL28 8EE |
| Porthcothan | Penlan B&B, Porthcothan Bay, PL28 8LP |
| Newquay | The Glendeveor, 25 Mount Wise, Newquay, TR7 2BQ |
| Perranporth | Seiners Arms, Beach Rd, Perranporth, TR6 0JL |
| Portreath | Cliff House B&B, Cliff Terrace, Portreath, Redruth TR16 4LE |
