SWCP Trip 7 Falmouth to Fowey

3.5 days, 46.4 miles

March 2019

DayRouteMileageApprox time
28Falmouth to Portloe13.96.5 hours
29Portloe to Mevagissey13.4 7 hours
30Mevagissey to Par12.26 hours
31Par to Fowey6.93.5 hours

We started this leg at a place called Place Creek.  Instead of going back to Falmouth and taking two ferries, one to St Mawes and then another to Place Creek, we took a taxi from St Austell.  The ferry from St Mawes to Place Creek wasn’t running at this time of year anyway, so the taxi was our only option to get to the next stretch of the coast path. 

Walking out of Place we rounded the windy St Anthony’s Head from where the sometimes far-reaching views were obscured on this cloudy, overcast day.  We stood on Nare’s Head and looked back at where we had walked on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula.  We then turned northwards towards Kiberick Cove and, as we walked along the cliffs, we saw below us a harem of seals basking on the beach or on rocks, going for the occasional dip in the water en masse. 

The following day was perfect conditions for walking: beautiful bright sunlight, blue skies with wispy clouds.  Unusually, we were walking in T shirts in early March.  The views were enhanced by the vivid colours: the blues and greens of the landscape and a yellow tunnel created by the bright gorse flowers lining either side of the path.  We landed on rugged, deserted beaches, trudged along paths tucked in close to the edge of the cliff, walked among grazing Dartmoor ponies and stopped to observe the views from the coastguard lookout above Porthluney Bay.  The deserted and dramatic Hemmick Beach provided magnificent views in all directions.

The third day brought more changes in the weather as it became colder and windier.   The roller coaster climbing of the day, nick named the Cornish Alps, made for strenuous walking.  But, as is often the case, this meant that the views were magnificent.  The scenery was enhanced by the bright blue of the skies, the infinite turquoise of the sea and the lush green meadows. 

The wind raged around Black Head, where we could barely stand up, as we struggled for footholds whilst taking pictures to record the moment. Other notable stops on the way were historic Charlestown with its grade II listed harbour and its collection of old ships docked there.  We encountered another stunning beach at Carlyon Bay before the hugely underwhelming walk around the china clay works at Par. 

Heading out of Par you only really want to look in one direction and that is East.  The view of the heavy industrialised china works, juxtaposed with the beach, is a strange and rather unpleasant sight.  We kept looking forwards towards Gribben Head.  Once we had turned the corner and headed north-eastwards there were more fantastic views, a lovely walk into Polridmouth Cove, another deserted spot, Readymoney Cove with its ruined St Catherine’s Castle, built originally by Henry VIII, and then into the popular, tranquil holiday resort of Fowey, where our walk ended.

Travel arrangements

Drive to Par and park at train station
Train Par to St Austell (Great Western Railway) – 6 minutes
Taxi St Austell to Place Creek – 40 minutes
Walk from Place Creek to Fowey
Bus Fowey to Par (Bus 24 or 25 First Kernow or Transport for Cornwall) – 15 minutes

Accommodation

St AustellMountview, 17 Trevanion Rd, St Austell, PL25 4RZ
PortloeCarradale B&B, Portloe TR2 5RB
MevagisseyTregorran Guest House, Cliff Street, Mevagissey, PL26 6QW
ParElmswood House, 73 Tehidy Rd, Tywardreath, Par, PL24 2QD